This allows the inner wheel well to be moved. Next remove the 8 T-25 Torx screws, 4 on each side, on the fender cover on the back side of both wheel arches. Remove the two bolts holding the hitch cover, and the two holting the bumper center to the chassis.

I also remove the 10mm nut from fuse box so I could move it enough to get the bumper nut off. You need a deep 10mm socket and a shot extension to reach it. Three of them are easy access, the one under the right side fuse box is tougher. They are 10mm and on long studs used to locate the bumper. Once it pops loose, do the same on the other side. Grip it at the bottom on one side and pull straight up. Use needle nose pliers to turn off the flat washer/nuts. They pop up and unhook from the cross piece by the seats. Remove the tie down with a T30 Torx bit, then lift the side rails out.

Very little is done under the car, and my short stature made me on my toes a lot. I backed the car onto a set of ramps to give me more room, but I suggest that, unless you are tall, don't bother. Aftermarket trailer hitch install - part 2 (electrical). Read the whole thread and save yourself some time. It took me about 4 hours, 2 of them figuring out the wiring on the car. It came with the wiring kit and all needed fittings, for just $265 shipped. It was this one: 2011 2016 Audi Q5 Trailer Hitch Wiring Harness Kit Drawtite Class III 2 Inch | eBay

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